Oleana might not be strictly Moroccan (and there are certainly more authentic places in the area), but the confluence of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern flavors that hit the plate at this modern joint are not only noteworthy and delicious but also very reminiscent of the type of fusion that forms the base of Moroccan cuisine.
The restaurant is located on a quiet street between the bustle of Mass Ave and Cambridge Street. An inviting corridor leads to a warm and welcoming entrance; as you walk-in you are greeted courteously by several members of the staff. Dead of winter, the dining room is on a low murmur and filled with old and young alike – all stylish and excited for a culinary adventure (I hear the atmosphere varies quite a bit since a patio opens up in the summer).
My adventure is of the very reasonably priced six-course (6 dishes plus and amuse bouche for $40) vegetarian tasting menu variety. For the first course, a prompt, attentive yet unintrusive waiter brings out two dishes: fatoush and spiced carrot puree. The fatoush, or Middle Eastern bread salad, is made with slightly bitter chopped escarole, sweet apple, earthy fennel, crunchy fried pita and a slightly tart sumac dressing. The salad is a lip-smacking. Alongside the fatoush, a warm puree of sweet and spicy carrots and a small mound of dukkah (crushed nuts, seeds and spices) lounge together in a pool of olive oil. The two dishes together are a nice, light start to the meal.
The next course blows my taste buds away. Two balls of tahini-capped spinach falafels sit on a bed of crinkled cress, which is in turn atop a beet yogurt slathered on lavash. A slice of pickle accompanies each falafel. Though the falafel is excellent in its own right – light, crispy on the outside, moist on the inside and perfectly seasoned – the highlight of the dish is the beet yogurt. It is thick, creamy, bright and earthy – a complex amalgamation of flavors that tickles the taste buds and leaves you wanting more.
But as is with any tasting menu, the courses march on and there is little time to linger. In this case, the next point of focus is a kohlrabi and radicchio pancake with a soft set haloumi cheese, mint and nigella seed. The dish is pleasant and filling, but not memorable. Instead, look forward to the course after the pancake: an unmissable and bold bowl of fideos (Spanish vermicelli) and chickpeas covered in a creamy and spicy sauce. It is served with a bit of green chard and addictive orange aioli.
After all of the courses, you are probably ready to call it quits…but leave room for dessert. It is absolutely worth it. A refreshing and light almond milk gelato will never have you guessing that it’s dairy-free. It’s topped with crunchy, candied almond slivers. For something more indulgent, the gelato is paired with a chocolate panino – rich, dark chocolate sandwiched between two spongy slices of cake.
If the tasting menu proves to be too much for you to handle, all the items can be ordered a la carte – though the tasting provides the small plates at cost with extra value of dessert and an amuse bouche. Either way, be ready for a delicious time.
Oleana
134 Hampshire Street
Cambridge, MA
617-661-0505
Currently based out of Boston, Jesal is a blogger, freelance writer, yoga enthusiast and lifelong vegetarian who spent four years eating her way through New York City and various other cities around the globe. After answering hundreds of emails and phone calls answering the question, "Where's a cool place I can take my vegetarian friend out to eat" she started Veggiewala to efficiently share her knowledge of the vegetarian food scene with curious carnivores, flexitarians and other vegetarians.